I can't say enough how taken I was with this finish. It is a beautiful coppery red/brown color that still had a translucent quality, keeping the metallic qualities as opposed to a solid rusty coloration. I then coated in with clear satin lacquer. I also did a small test piece that I cleaned and wire brushed to a nice silver color, then gave two quick coats of HO, using the same process described in step #3 above. Seal surface with clear lacquer, oil, wax or whatever method you generally prefer.After that, the HO didn't seem to deepen the color noticably. I found that after five or six rounds, I had a very deep beautiful redish brown color that was incredibly stable (didn't easily rub off). Make sure the piece is entirely dry before spraying more on. Repeat step #3 until you have the depth of coloration you desire.If any areas stay wet longer (like on horizantal surfaces where it can pool up), gently dab them with a clean rag or paper towel. I found this technique works best if the piece is warm enough to dry out in less than a minute. Spray on a coat of HO, just enough to wet the entire surface.Let the clean, dry piece warm up in the sun (I suppose you could lightly warm the piece with a torch or heat gun, but don't get it hot, just barely warm).Sanding, sandblasting, or rigorous powered wire brushing could also be used. The way I cleaned the metal was first a degreaser, then cleaning with muriatic acid. I used a newly opened bottle (for maximum strength) and did not water down the solution at all. I found that applying the HO with a spray bottle worked best. It was a clear, warm day, and most of the surfaces were vertically oriented. I tried out the hydrogen peroxide method for the first time recently, and was astounded with what I got. You can control the pitting by: how closely, how many and the size of the salt grains you apply. (Enrique Vega from ARTMETAL mailing list) Hydrogen Peroxide Finish for Steel (From a discussion on "theforge" e-mail list)įor nice pitting, sprinkle granulated salt, sodium chloride, on the hydrogen peroxide dampened surface. If you are quenching your work while it is still hot, a hard rust layer forms and is very hard to remove with wire brushing. It isn't as good as applying graphite dust while the paint is tacky, but repair touch ups are hard to match.įinal note. Sherwin Williams Commercial division has a graphite black premix that looks pretty good. For exterior work: sand blast the piece and apply a zinc base enamel primer. The thinning of the linseed oil allows for it to get into all the cracks and crevices. Apply the mixture liberally with a brush and then wipe the excess off with a clean cloth. Make sure you remove all loose scale with rotary wire brush. All available at your local hardware store. Mix 60% boiled linseed oil, 40% turpentine, a dash of Japan drier. (Unknown Source from ARTMETAL mailing list) For Indoor Work that are outside last for years before rust appears at the mechanically abused points.
(Do not try this at home because the smell is horrendous and takes months to go away!) The finish is very durable under weather and mechanical action. Then quench in water and rub with a cloth. Continue applying until the liquid ceases to boil on the surface of the metal. To apply, we heat the piece just short of color and brush on. We used to use liquid floor wax, but that has become unavailable in recent years (no plastic finishes please), so we have gone to the water soluble car wax that you "mix with water to wash and shine your car in one easy application."
The wax is any liquid wax that we can find in the grocery, hardware, or auto store. Use a mixture of equal parts of liquid wax and boiled linseed oil. Appalachian Blacksmiths Association - Oil.
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